Everyone knows Belur. Everyone knows Halebidu. But very few know about the hidden Hoysala temples scattered across Tumkur district, just 70 km from Bangalore.
I rode out on a Saturday morning with no fixed plan — just a general direction toward Tumkur and a curiosity about what might be off the main road.
The first surprise was a small temple in a village about 20 km outside Tumkur city. A local farmer pointed me toward it after I asked if there was anything historical nearby. The temple was maybe 800 years old, completely unrestored, with the original stone carvings still intact. Celestial dancers, mythological scenes, decorative friezes — all in the distinctive Hoysala style.
The temple priest, an elderly man who had devoted his life to this forgotten monument, told me how historically significant places often go unnoticed because they're not on the tourist circuit.
The Siddaganga Math is the more famous attraction in Tumkur — a living monastery that doubles as a massive educational institution, feeding thousands of children daily. The atmosphere here is spiritual yet practical.
Devarayana Durga, a forested hill about 10 km from Tumkur, offers a contrast — ancient temples on a hill surrounded by wildlife. On the ride up, I spotted peacocks. At the summit, the view of the surrounding plains made the climb worthwhile.
The return ride through backroads took me through coconut plantations and small villages, where children waved at the motorcycle. These unscripted moments are what travel memories are made of.